Olhão and Fuseta almost 65 years later

*Arquitectura Popular em Portugal* is more than a book. It is a landmark in the history of both architectural practice and a study of and period view of Portugal's cultural and material heritage. In the 1950s, a group of 18 passionate architects, under the banner of the National Union of Architects, dedicated themselves to a thorough and systematic study of Portugal's popular architecture. Recently, the Facsimile (copy of the original 1961 edition) appeared in 12 weekly supplements to the magazine Publico When I hear about it, I immediately make a reservation for a weekly order at the bookshop on Avenida da Republic in Olhão. I have to wait long for the volumes I am most curious about - the Algarve - as they are the last to appear.

In the beautiful reissue, an epic work comes to life that digs deep into the soul of Portuguese vernacular architecture. Every page breathes the history of a country, a people and its heritage. No fewer than 700 pages of stunning black-and-white photographs and blazing text, faithfully reproduced on the same paper as a monument of craftsmanship along with an archive box as with the first edition.

In six carefully demarcated regions, the architects traversed more than 50,000 kilometres, by car, scooter, on horseback, donkey and even on foot. They recorded their findings in no fewer than 10,000 photographs, hundreds of drawings and thousands of notes. What they collected was not just material for a book: it was the vivid evidence of a society in transformation, of a time that would soon disappear.

This research work resulted in the first edition of *Arquitectura Popular em Portugal*, a book that has since become a fundamental document for the study of Portuguese cultural and architectural heritage.

Among the architects who took part were the ‘leading lights’ of the then Architects‘ Union, such as one of the initiators Keil do Amaral (former president of the Architects’ Union), Nuno Teotónio Pereira (multiple winner of the Valmor architecture prize), Nuno Portas (former secretary of state for public housing) and Fernando Távora (CIAM member). The country was divided into six districts and each district had three architects, one with the necessary experience in charge.

For the Algarve, architect Arthur Pires Martins (1914-2000) became the leader of the group, which further consisted of architects Celestino van Castro (1920-2007) and Fernando Ferreira Torres (1922-2010). All three were ‘modernists’ and hailed from Lisbon or Porto. Apparently, there were no local architects in the Algarve yet who were considered ‘tough enough’ for this task. There are interesting stories about the research in northern Portugal and Trás-os-Montes about the hardships and efforts the architects had to endure during their research (1955-1961). For the Algarve, however, we only have the original report.

The Research Area

The survey area included not only the Algarve but also part of the Alentejo. The south-western part starts at Corte Pinto and runs through Mértola and Aljustrel along the Sado basin near to Alcácer do Sal and ends at the mouth of the Sado.

The survey contains detailed descriptions of the geographical layout, the type of landscape, of what is in the ground and what the people living on it are made of. The Algarve as a region consists of three subregions that are so characteristic that they could almost be considered small autonomous regions. These are also called the Serra, the Barrocal and the Beira-Mar (or Litoral).

‘The vineyards spread across the plains. The rivers form a fertile network of thoroughfares. Carob, fig, almond and olive trees are everywhere, covering the earth with a green mantle that provides shade and food. The population lives in dense centres, scattered along long winding roads or in small hamlets.‘’

On the coast, fishing and its derived industries are the main activities of the people living there. The fishing, tuna and sardine processing industries are of recent origin and are an important economic asset for the province. The use of salt pans is much older and is considered one of the most productive industries in the country, thanks to the dry climate and high salinity of the sea water.

Olhão en Fuseta

Olhão and Fuseta get a special mention in *Arquitectura Popular em Portugal*. The following is written about them: ‘They are two unique Algarve towns, recently created and mainly populated by fishermen. Olhão is the oldest, as the first masonry houses were built at the end of the 18th century.’

Olhão's development took place from a central core, created by the personal initiative of fishermen, who, thanks to profits from smuggling during the siege of Gibraltar, were able to replace their old thatched huts with masonry houses. The central core of the town, now called Barreta, was followed by the recent area around it, which had a more regular layout. What typifies these settlements, however, is the predominance of horizontal roofs; called açoteias, on the mainly single-storey houses (‘cubist’ architecture).

Later, the houses were raised with new volumes - the miranten and contra miranten - accessed by external staircases. These buildings are reminiscent of Moroccan villages and some of the Mediterranean coast of Spain. Some authors hypothesise that such houses are vestiges of Arab influence, while others see them as derived from the climate.

For António Sérgio, ‘The style of houses we see there now was a direct copy of the Moroccan style, derived from relations with the border regions on the other side of the Atlantic’.

‘The resident of this original settlement (Olhão) enjoy particular fame for smuggling and trading, and they are the only ones in the Algarve who practise long-distance fishing: fishing which takes place in Morocco and lasts about four months; Smuggling and trading require even longer absences. Hence the predominance of women in the land management of the working family. The town of Fuseta provides a large contingent of seamen for cod fishing.’

Precipitation in this part of the Algarve coastline is low and almost the same everywhere, so waterproofing is of little importance in this part of the coastal strip. Yet other places in this region have a very different appearance, such as Santa Luzia near Tavira and Cabanas de Tavira, etc., where hipped roofs predominate.

Projects in Olhão:

Rua Almirante Reis: One of the first ‘social housing’ projects. Situation 1950s and current situation.

Map of Olhão 1950s, ‘cubist’ architecture and above right the typical Olhão ‘block’ chimney with drawing.

Projects in Fuseta:

‘Row houses’ on the edge of the town: Front, back, floor plan and back with patio (1950's)

The current situation accessible via subway behind the white flat block. With the current front and ‘modified’ back sides (photos in colour)

Map of Fuseta in the 1950s and view of the town from the square in front of the church

The survey is an invaluable resource because it took place just before the big tourist boom, which took place after the construction of Faro International Airport (1965). This captures the landscape and architecture just before the major changes in regions and building techniques took place, and while the striking details of traditional construction in the Algarve were still fully present and included. In addition to geography, typology and climate, the study includes economics, settlement types, building materials and processes.

Photo's: National Union of Architects Portugal